To understand how a motorcycle wet clutch works and the best oil to use we start with the basics
As shown in the images of a dirt bike wet clutch below, the clutch connects the engine and transmission via a series of alternating friction and steel plates.
The clutch basket (1) is attached to the engine. Friction plates (2) are attached to the clutch basket via splines along their circumference.
The hub (3) is attached to the transmission. Steel plates (4) are attached to the hub via splines on their inside opening.
The hub fits inside the clutch basket and the friction and steel plates are woven together, connecting the two components and creating one assembly.
The pressure plate (5) squeezes the friction and steel plates together, binding the engine to the transmission and moving the bike. Squeezing the clutch lever relieves pressure, allowing the friction and steel plates to separate and rotate independently. Now the engine can idle without the bike moving.
Wet clutches are widely used in motorcycles and dirt bikes. The term simply means the clutch is lubricated with oil, as opposed to a dry clutch. Friction plays a big role in proper clutch operation.
To illustrate, imagine sitting aboard a motorcycle or dirt bike with the clutch lever activated, idling at a red light or in a starting gate.
The friction and steel plates are separated, allowing the bike to run without moving. The light turns green or the gate drops. As you let out the clutch lever, the plates squeeze together. The transition from the friction and steel plates spinning independently to becoming locked together is an example of dynamic friction. Once the plates are locked together and spinning in unison, they’re subject to the principles of static friction.
Oil vital to clutch performance
Motor oil plays a vital role in both areas.
The formulation influences the dynamic friction you experience, which is best thought of as clutch feel.
Oils with incorrect frictional properties can result in inconsistent, or “loose,” clutch feel. This negatively affects your ability to confidently pull away from a red light without the bike cutting out, or start quickly and grab the holeshot in a race.
The oil also contributes to the holding power, or static friction, between the plates once the clutch lever has been let all the way out and you’re riding.
Oils with incorrect frictional properties can allow the plates to slip in some circumstances, which you’ll feel as lost power to the ground.
A powerful V-twin riding up a hill, for example, can generate sufficient load to cause the clutch plates to slip and the bike to surge.
The oil’s additive chemistry has the greatest effect on performance. Friction modifiers, added to some passenger car/light truck motor oils to maximize fuel economy, can decrease the coefficient of friction within the clutch pack and result in excessive slippage. Extreme-pressure additives, commonly used in gear lubes to protect against shock loads and intense pressures, can cause excessive clutch slippage and related damage.
Best motorcycle oil for a wet clutch
The key is to use a lubricant specifically formulated for wet clutches, such as AMSOIL synthetic motorcycle and dirt bike oils.
They contain no friction modifiers or extreme-pressure additives. They’re dialed-in with the correct frictional properties to promote smooth shifts and consistent clutch feel while guarding against wear for long clutch life.
Using the best oil for a motorcycle or dirt bike wet clutch will help you focus on riding instead of wasting time on unplanned maintenance.
HOW TO CHANGE THE OIL AND OIL FILTER ON THE 5TH GENERATION TOYOTA 4RUNNER
There are many different types of maintenance you can do on a vehicle, but quite possibly the most important is changing your vehicle’s oil. If you are wanting to have a reliable and long-lasting vehicle, I would suggest changing your oil at least every 5,000 miles. You might not need to change it quite so often with synthetic oil, but it is well worth the money. You really should only use synthetic oil as well, such as Amsoil. Although a 4Runner is pretty bulletproof, changing the oil is necessary and will only aid in a smoother, longer lasting vehicle.
WHAT YOU NEED
There are some key components you will need for changing the oil on your 5th Gen 4Runner. Here is a list of everything you will need:
The first step is to find a location to change the oil on your car. I can fit under my 4Runner without any ramps or a lift; however, if you need and or prefer to raise your car up, do so accordingly.
STEP 2 – GRAB SOME LATEX GLOVES
Prepare to change your 4Runner’s oil by putting on some latex gloves. Although this isn’t necessary, I believe it is best to try and keep your hands as clean as possible from oils and grease. Using gloves also helps to have a quick clean up, because sometimes grease can be really hard to get off your hands.
STEP 3 – REMOVE SKID PLATE COVER
If your 4Runner comes equipped with a front skid plate, you will need to remove the small cover located on the skid plate that will give you access to the oil drain plug.
You will need to remove this cover by using a 12mm socket and ratchet. After removing the bolts, set the small skid plate that covers the oil drain plug to the side. I suggest placing the bolts on top of this small skid plate, so you can easily locate them once it is time to put this cover back on.
STEP 4 – REMOVE THE OIL DRAIN PLUG
Prepare to remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil from your 4Runner. In order to do so, you will need to have a container to catch the oil that spills below. Although, some oil is lost from the vehicle operation, plan for at least 6.6 quarts to come out (as this is how much you put in).
After placing a container to catch the oil underneath the drain plug, use a 14mm socket and ratchet to unbolt the drain plug. After the drain plug becomes loose enough, unscrew it by hand.
Make sure to hold on to the drain plug and try not to drop it in the oil catch container. After you remove the drain plug, oil will come out quickly so be prepared to move your hand out of the way and let the oil drain into the container.
In the meantime, you can go ahead and wipe any contaminants from the drain plug with a clean microfiber cloth. After doing so, set the drain plug aside until later.
STEP 5 – REMOVE THE FRONT SKID PLATE & COVER
While your oil is draining, go ahead and remove the front skid plate and skid plate cover. You might ask why you have to do this, and the simple reason is to change the oil filter. You don’t have access to the oil filter unless you remove the front skid plate and skid plate cover.
To remove the cover, you will need a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove five (5) bolts. There is also one (1) push pin that you will need to remove. Once you remove the cover you will then have access to remove all four (4) bolts that hold on the skid plate.
To remove these bolts, use a 12mm socket and ratchet. Word of advice that is very important: Remove the front bolts first on the skid plate. After doing so you will need to hold up the skid plate while removing the back two. If you don’t hold the skid plate when removing the last bolt, the skid plate will fall and hit you. Although it doesn’t weigh too much, it probably won’t feel good. The front of the skid plate is on a hinge that unhooks.
Take your time and rotate the back of the skid plate towards the ground to remove the skid plate from the hinge. After you remove the skid plate, set it to the side with the bolts on or nearby.
STEP 6 – REMOVE THE OIL FILTER
At this point in time you will want to remove the oil filter – which I think is the most complex part of the entire process, but still pretty straightforward. Before you remove the filter go ahead and reinstall your drain plug and the small skid plate that covers the drain plug. After doing so, move the container you are using to catch your oil so that it is underneath the oil filter.
Using a ratchet with a 3/8-inch extension remove the metal plug to the oil filter. Some oil will drip out so make sure you have a container to catch it. Your new oil filter should come with a plastic tool to further drain out some oil. All you have to do is push it into the base of the filter. Oil should drain out after doing so. Wait until the oil has finished draining and then remove the plastic drain tool. Along with removing the plastic drain tool, a small O-ring should also come out. This is trash, so go ahead and throw away the drain tool and the small O-ring.
Now you can remove the actual filter. Use your 64 mm filter wrench and take off the filter housing. Make sure to note a small metal tab on the side of the housing. This tab should align to the same location when putting the filter back on. After unscrewing the filter all the way, remove the old filter from the housing and throw it away.
There is also an O-ring on the housing that needs to be removed. You do not need any pry tools and should be able to remove this O-ring by hand with ease. I’d recommend doing this by hand as you don’t want to damage the plastic threads
STEP 7 – NEW O-RING FROM THE FILTER BOX
Grab your new O-ring from the filter box and coat it with a small amount of oil. After doing so place it on the filter housing. Make sure it is seated all the way around. Next, place your new filter into the housing. You don’t have to worry about orientation as there is no right way up.
STEP 8 – SCREW THE FILTER ASSEMBLY BACK IN
Make sure to keep tightening until the metal indicator tab is back to its position like it was before removing the filter housing. Now install the small O-ring into the filter housing by first coating it in a small amount of oil and then placing the O-ring in place on the drain area of the filter housing. After doing so, you can reinstall the metal drain plug into the filter housing. You don’t need to overtighten this, so just make sure it is snug.
STEP 9 – OIL CHANGE
After verifying that your drain plug and oil filter are back in place install 6.6 quarts of AMSOIL 0W-20 oil into your 4Runner. Use a funnel for this as you do not want to spill oil on your engine.
STEP 10 – CHECK FOR LEAKS
When you finish installing all 6.6 quarts of oil check around the drain plug and filter housing, make sure there are no leaks. If you can’t spot any you can go ahead and install the skid plate and skid plate cover.
STEP 11 – RESET YOUR MAINTENANCE LIGHT
Now that you’ve completed the actual oil change procedure you need to reset your maintenance light so that you know when to change it again. To do so you will need the key to your vehicle.
Turn your key to accessory mode (far as the key will go without actually starting the vehicle).
Verify your odometer is showing Trip A. If it isn’t, press the knob to the right of the speedometer to go to Trip A.
After verifying it says trip A, turn the key to the off position. Press and hold down the odometer button and then turn the key back to accessory mode. The screen should show the maintenance resetting.
Continue to hold the odometer button until the maintenance light has been reset. After doing this, you are good to go for another 5,000 miles.
Although there are some cars out there that make it a little easier to change the oil, the 4Runner’s oil can be changed relatively easily and in a short amount of time.
Since the 4Runner is capable of going in some pretty rugged areas, you need to take the time to maintain your vehicle as best as possible and prevent any potential damage from occurring.
Taking the time to change your oil every 5,000 miles with a quality synthetic, such as AMSOIL, will only benefit your vehicles performance, longevity, and reliability out on the trail and on the open road.
AMSOIL provides oil analysis service options. By analyzing used engine oil, a qualified lab can detect mechanical problems your engine may have.
Harley introduced its Milwaukee-Eight V-twin engine in 2016, in part to increase power and reduce engine heat. How does AMSOIL perform in this Harley engine?
First, let’s cover the background story first. Harley interviewed 1,000 riders in seven cities to find out what they wanted in Harley’s next generation of touring bikes. Two themes emerged: more power and less heat.
Traditional air-cooled V-twin engines, like those used to power most Harleys, can get hot. In fact, some riders have complained about the intense heat radiating from the engine while riding, particularly the rear cylinder, which doesn’t receive as much airflow as the font cylinder.
The engine also suffers from heat
Extreme heat not only challenges rider comfort, it challenges the engine.
If, for example, extreme heat causes the piston to expand beyond acceptable tolerances, it can rub against the cylinder wall and cause scuffing.
Heat also causes some oils to thin and lose viscosity. The oil can become so thin the engine loses oil pressure, causing the oil-pressure gauge to bottom out.
The rider may notice increased valvetrain and gear noise as parts clatter together. Any rider worth his or her salt knows you don’t run an engine with no oil pressure, so he or she shuts it down until the engine cools enough to restore oil pressure.
Air ≠ liquid
Why do air-cooled V-twins get so hot? And how hot can they get?
It comes down to physics.
Air-cooled engines rely on air flowing over the engine to remove heat. In contrast, liquid-cooled engines, like those found on modern Indian motorcycles, use a coolant/water mixture to absorb engine heat and carry it to a radiator, where it dissipates into the atmosphere.
Air is inherently less efficient removing heat than coolant/water, meaning your average V-twin powering a motorcycle runs hotter than a liquid-cooled bike.
In fact, our own extreme-heat testing at AMSOIL revealed the rear-cylinder temperature in a 2012 Harley Street Bob climbed as high as 550ºF (288ºC).
During testing of a 2017 Indian Scout, in contrast, we recorded an average cylinder temperature of 200ºF (93ºC). Granted, the bike didn’t undergo the same test as the Harley, meaning it’s not an apples-to-apples comparison, but it does suggest liquid-cooled bikes run quite a bit cooler than air-cooled bikes.
Riding conditions turn up the heat
Your riding conditions also affect engine heat.
Have you ever gone to Sturgis? Or ridden in a Fourth of July parade or other event at the height of summer?
In Sturgis, riders crawl down Main Street, taking in the sights and sounds. The August sun beats down on the asphalt and radiates onto the bike. Traffic can creep along so slowly that air doesn’t rush over the engine like it does when riding on the highway.
This lack of cooling air moving across the engine can cause heat to climb to dangerous territory.
If it’s bad enough, the electronic temperature controls that safeguard the bike against overheating can trigger, forcing the rider to pull over and stop until the engine cools.
The Harley Milwaukee-Eight runs cooler
I’m no marketing genius, but sitting alongside the road waiting for your bike to cool isn’t good brand strategy. So, the engineers at Harley designed the Milwaukee-Eight engine in part to run cooler.
Right on Harley’s website, the company presents the Milwaukee-Eight as the “…most powerful, coolest-running motor we’ve ever built.”
Prior to testing, Amsoil instrumented the bike and rode it on the streets to determine the operating conditions that would most severely challenge the bike and the motor oil.
As you might expect, stop-and-go, slow-moving traffic increased heat and presented the most severe conditions, similar to the conditions you see at a bike rally on a hot summer day.
So, Amsoil engineers designed a 1,000-mile dyno test meant to replicate the worst-case scenario: slow-moving operation in extreme heat with little-to-no cooling air passing over the engine. 1,000 miles is enough to make 640 trips down Main St. in Sturgis.
How does AMSOIL perform in the Harley Milwaukee-Eight?
The test created conditions that held the oil-sump temperature at a steady 300ºF (149ºC) for 1,000 miles. The rear-cylinder temperature surpassed 420ºF (216ºC). That’s hotter than your bike should ever get.
Heat that extreme chemically breaks down most oils, causing it to lose viscosity and fall out of grade. It can also lead to oxidation, which hastens formation of harmful deposits that can cause the rings to stick, reducing compression and power.
Chemical analysis following 1,000 miles at 300ºF (149ºC) shows the oil maintained viscosity and virtually prevented wear.
Check out the video to see the full results.
So, does the Milwaukee-Eight run cooler than past Harley V-twin engines?
We’d have to do more testing to definitively say, but all signs point to the affirmative. Notice how the rear-cylinder temperature in our 2012 bike maxed out at 550ºF (288ºC), while the 2019 Harley maxed out just above 420ºF (216ºC). Bear in mind, however, that the two tests aren’t identical, meaning we can’t draw any firm conclusions. But it sure appears that Harley succeeded in reducing heat with its Milwaukee-Eight engine.
That’s thanks to a series of oil-filled cooling lines that circulate around the cylinders and carry heat to an oil cooler.
It’s that time of the year again and many of you may be wondering what’s the best hydrostatic oil to use in a zero turn.
Many mower manufacturers will allow the use of 20W-50 motor oil in their transmissions. While motor oil will work in many hydrostatic transmissions, there is a better option.
There’s no question that motor oil will capably work in mower hydrostatic transmissions. The mower will steer and it will be propelled forward and backward. But there are vital differences in the way that motor oil is formulated compared to dedicated hydrostatic transmission fluid. These differences can play a role in long term performance and component life.
The main factor to consider is that motor oil is designed for a completely different operating environment than hydrostatic transmission oil. Engine oils are formulated to deal with combustion and combustion by-products. There are very specific detergents and additives in motor oil that won’t affect performance or protection over the short term. But over time, these motor oil ingredients will limit the oil change interval and this can have an effect on long term component life.
The detergent ingredients in motor oil hold combustion by-products in suspension and prevent deposit formation. These ingredients are vital in an internal combustion engine. But not only are these ingredients not needed in a hydrostatic mower transmission, they can degrade and shear down over time. These degraded detergents can contribute to oil foaming, which can lead to compromised wear control.
Another advantage that a dedicated hydrostatic transmission oil has over motor oil is the ability to fight oxidation and corrosion. The hallmark of a good hydraulic fluid is oxidative stability and strong anti-corrosion chemistry. These attributes lead to longer service life and improved protection during storage.
Hydrostatic transmissions also have gears. The meshing of gears can shear down and thin out engines oils. Hydrostatic transmission oil is designed to withstand gear lubrication to a much greater extent than motor oil. This means that dedicated transmission oil has a superior ability to maintain its original viscosity and provide more reliable wear protection over the long term.
There’s no question that motor oil will work in mower hydrostatic transmissions that allow its use. But a dedicated hydrostatic transmission oil contains specific anti-foaming, anti-rust, anti-oxidation and anti-wear ingredients. This chemistry will allow for much longer service life, consistent performance and maximized transmission life. We recommend the new AMSOIL 20W-50 Zero-Turn Synthetic Hydrostatic Transmission Fluid.
Have you checked out our Preferred Customer membership?
Check out how AMSOIL V-Twin Oil vs. Harley-Davidson SYN3 Performs
Bikers always want to know how AMSOIL products compare to the competition, particularly against Harley-Davidson oil. Read on to see how AMSOIL V-Twin Oil vs Harley-Davidson SYN3 compare.
It’s no wonder since Harley-Davidson dominates two-wheeled culture despite the resurgence of the Indian brand and the rising popularity of adventure bikes and everything you can do with them.
The company’s founding is a great story. William Harley and Arthur Davidson built their first motorcycle in a 10×15 shed right here in our home state of Wisconsin. While the duo’s 116-cc prototype bike lacked the power to ascend the hills around Milwaukee, it turns out it had the power to reshape American culture.
That’s one reason several AMSOIL Dealers and employees ride Harleys.
Viscosity is the most important property of a lubricant. While it’s defined as “resistance to flow,” it helps to think of viscosity as the oil’s thickness.
Your motorcycle engine, transmission and primary are designed to use oil of a specific viscosity, likely 20W-50 if you’re riding a Harley. The higher the numbers, the thicker the oil. So, a 20W-50 is thicker than the 5W-20 oil you use in your truck.
Oil that’s too thin reduces wear protection
Oil that’s too thin for its application won’t form a durable fluid film on metal components. The oil film protects the bearings from wear, helps keep the piston from scuffing against the cylinder wall, protects the transmission gears, guards against compensator wear and more.
In the transmission, for example, the oil must be thick enough to develop a strong fluid film to cushion the gears against shock-loading and quiet loud “thunks.” This promotes smooth, quiet shifts.
It’s the same story in the primary. The oil must protect the compensator from wear to prevent noise. If it doesn’t, you’ll find yourself on your phone reading the glut of content about Harley compensator noise and how to fix it.
The compensator acts like a shock absorber between the engine and transmission, helping prevent engine vibration from interfering with the transmission. When it wears out, it makes a ticking or knocking noise.
Avoiding this scenario seems easy enough – just use a good oil that maintains its viscosity and forms a strong, protective film on parts.
Motorcycles destroy lesser oils
That’s easier said than done.
Motorcycle engines, transmissions and primaries can be brutal environments that take a toll on oil. The mechanical shearing action of metal parts churning at thousands of rpm (particularly transmission gears) combined with extreme heat can cause oil to lose viscosity and become thinner.
Oil that’s too thin reduces wear protection and can lead to “thunking” transmission gears and a noisy compensator.
To help avoid these problems, use a motorcycle oil that maintains its protective viscosity, like AMSOIL 20W-50 Synthetic V-Twin Motorcycle Oil. Compared to Harley-Davidson SYN3 oil, it resists viscosity breakdown 6X better for improved protection against compensator and transmission gear wear.*
AMSOIL 15W-50 Metric Motorcycle Oil Takes Next Level Protection to Adventure-Bike Riders
Adventure bikes are prized for their versatility to cover just about any kind of terrain, opening riders up to new experiences. AMSOIL 15W-50 Metric Motorcycle Oil provides those benefits that help maximize the lives and performance of adventure-bike investments.
AMSOIL 10W-30 and 10W-40 Synthetic Metric Motorcycle Oils have been available for the unique needs of high-revving, hot-running metric motorcycle engines, particularly sport bikes like the Kawasaki* Ninja*, Yamaha* YZF and Honda* CBR; and touring bikes like the Honda Goldwing.* Now, AMSOIL 15W-50 Synthetic Metric Motorcycle Oil, product code MFF, is recommended for motorcycles that require 15W-50 motorcycle oil, including those made by Ducati*, BMW*, KTM*, Yamaha, Triumph* and Royal Enfield*.
The new 15W-50 Metric Motorcycle Oil is for certain touring bikes, particularly BMW and Ducati models, but it is primarily for adventure bikes, which are equipped for both on- and off-road riding. Popular examples include the BMW R 1200 GS Adventure, Triumph Tiger* 1200 XR and Ducati Multistrada* Enduro*.
AMSOIL 15W-50 Synthetic Metric Motorcycle Oil offers riders the security that comes with using an oil as precisely engineered as the bikes in which it’s used. It meets the exacting standards of industry and original equipment manufacturer (OEM) specifications. It is formulated to deliver the benefits riders most seek, including:
Robust power and acceleraton – By fighting wear and power-robbing carbon, AMSOIL Synthetic Metric Motorcycle Oil helps preserve engine power for maximum torque and acceleration. The oil’s precise frictional properties promote confident clutch feel, helping riders enjoy pinpoint control when staring from a dead stop and navigating terrain.
Next-level wear protection – Guarding against wear despite high RPM and intense heat results in long-lasting components that require less maintenance, letting riders focus on reaching their destinations, not fixing their bikes.
Fights extreme head – Resisting breakdown and maintaining viscosity in extreme heat offers excellent protection during longer drain intervals while preserving fuel economy.
*All trademarked names and images are the property of their respective owners and may be registered marks in some countries. No affiliation or endorsement claim, express or implied, is made by their use. All products advertised here are developed by AMSOIL for use in the applications shown.
Mudslinger is the Number 1 product to keep Mud Off Your ATV & UTV.
If you spend your time racing down muddy trails or forging questionable terrain on your ATV, UTV, dirt bike, off-road truck or snowmobile (well, snowy trails for the latter), AMSOIL Mudslinger should definitely be a part of your arsenal.
This handy product will literally change your post-mudding experience. And, trust me, we know mudding. From sponsoring GNCC races on muddy courses in West Virginia, Indiana and elsewhere, to going off-road with Brad Lovell, the AMSOIL crew gets down and dirty with the best of them. So, we formulated Mudslinger with us and other mudders in mind.
What is Mudslinger?
Mudslinger is an aerosol that provides a protective, non-stick layer of armor against the accumulation of mud, dirt and snow on ATVs, UTVs, dirt bikes and snowmobiles. It makes removing mud and dirt with low-pressure water easy while protecting against UV rays and keeping equipment looking pristine. If you haven’t tried this standout product, here are a few ways (and reasons) to add it to your cart today and use it all year long.
Mudslinger is the Number 1 product to keep Mud Off Your ATV & UTV.
Mudslinger can help keep mud off your ATV/UTV or dirt bike. Here’s what a few riders and racers of off-road vehicles and powersports equipment have to say.
“I like getting my bike dirty, but I really don’t like cleaning it very much. Applied it to the rear wheel before the ride since that seems to be the dirtiest part of the bike most people see. Went for the ride, got the bike filthy, came home and washed it up. Probably 98% of the dust came off with using just the hose. This stuff works great for people who love getting their bikes dirty but hate cleaning them like me!”
“We are excited to try it out today to help keep the dirt and mud off the car during the triple crown race.”
Restore ATV/UTV, snowmobile or dirt bike luster
The sun’s UV rays slowly rob your powersports equipment of that light-new shine we all love. Mudslinger not only helps prevent accumulation of mud, dirt and snow, it provides a protective layer to counteract the damaging effects of UV rays. Its unique formulation restores, cleans and shines plastic, fiberglass and painted surfaces. Just spray it on a clean surface, allow it to sit for 15 minutes, then wipe off the excess with a lint-free microfiber towel for a brilliant shine.
Keep snow from sticking to your sled
Mudslinger is great for preventing the accumulation of snow, too. Before you take your snowmobile out on your next ride, apply Mudslinger anywhere you want to avoid snow buildup. Just make sure not to spray the seat or windshield.
Keeps car and truck tires clean
If you’re wondering if Mudslinger keeps tires clean, the answer is a resounding “Yes.”
Mudslinger can work on your daily driver or your prized car. Spray it on your tires to restore luster but also prevent the buildup of mud and snow. We recommend spraying it right after washing your car for the most protection.
Former NFL wide receiver and current outdoor enthusiast Jeff Janis uses it to keep the wheels clean on his truck and Chevy Camaro.
Protect your snow blower from sticky snow
Winter means snow. Heavy, wet snow can plug the chute on your snowblower, wasting time and trying your patience. Not only that, freeing a blockage from the chute while the snowblower is running is dangerous. Before the snow hits and you pull your snowblower out, spray a coating of AMSOIL Mudslinger in the chute to help keep the snow flying all winter.
Protect your lawnmower
You can use Mudslinger to keep your lawnmower clean. After using Heavy-Duty Degreaser and a water hose to remove built-up gunk and grime, spray Mudslinger post-wash to protect your engine. The engine will literally look brand new.
Remember that next time you hit the rummage sales and find an old lawnmower with a good motor that just needs a little TLC.
Nearly one in three Americans owns a firearm, typically falling into at least one of three categories. Hunters typically own shotguns to hunt waterfowl or upland birds and/or rifles to hunt larger game. Target/Sport Shooters own all types of firearms (shotguns, rifles, handguns) for recreational shooting. Firearms Professionals (gunsmiths, firearm safety instructors) work with all types of firearms in their professions.
The moving parts on firearms (actions, bolts, hinges) must be cleaned and lubricated to ensure top performance and long life. Hunters and shooters need their guns to perform when called upon, sometimes after an extended period of storage, after sitting for hours in a wet duck blind or while on a remote hunting trip with few opportunities to clean their gun daily.
Since nothing will ruin a hunting trip or day at the range quicker than a malfunctioning firearm, we tested AMSOIL firearm products in a variety of handguns and long guns. The information we gathered, along with extensive testing in our chemical lab, resulted in products dialed in for outstanding firearm protection in the most demanding conditions. As seen in the image, AMSOIL Synthetic Firearm Lubricant and Protectant guards against damaging corrosion better than a leading competitor’s product, helping keep firearms working properly for generations.
AMSOIL Synthetic Firearm Lubricant and Protectant
AMSOIL Synthetic Firearm Lubricant and Protectant (FLPBA) effectively lubricates and protects guns, helping extend life and prevent blockage, jams and wear.
Outstanding protection and performance in both hot and cold climates
Specifically formulated for firearms, offering superior performance over multi-purpose products
AMSOIL Firearm Cleaner and Protectant
AMSOIL Firearm Cleaner and Protectant (FCPSC) is an aerosol cleaner and protectant that penetrates deep into hard-to-reach components, effectively cleaning residue from all surfaces and safely protecting guns for storage.
Effectively cleans fouling and powder residue from all firearm surfaces, reducing jamming and increasing reliability
Protects guns against corrosion, allowing for safe storage and preserving performance, reliability and value
AMSOIL Synthetic Firearm Lubricant and Protectant and AMSOIL Firearm Cleaner and Protectant provide premium protection and performance in all rifles, handguns and shotguns. Both are safe to use on all metals, woods, composites and rubbers.
7 Reasons to Register as an AMSOIL Commercial Account
Here are the 7 Reasons to Register as an AMSOIL Commercial Account. Owning and operating your own business leaves little time or energy for thinking about lubricants.
These days, trips to the store are unnecessary when you can place an order online with sites like AMSOIL.com. Still not sold? Here are the top 7 reasons to sign up as an AMSOIL Commercial Account:
#1 AMSOIL Products Are Always On Sale
The term “Money over everything” resonates here. Business owners cannot afford to waste money in today’s competitive marketplace. AMSOIL commercial accounts can buy products at wholesale pricing, saving an average of 25 percent. Commercial accounts are also eligible for a purchase discount on product orders.
#2 Save on Maintenance Costs
Not only do commercial accounts save money buying AMSOIL products, they can also find extra savings by maximizing fuel economy and extending oil drain intervals with AMSOIL synthetic lubricants. Invest more money in growing your business, not repairing or fueling your equipment.
#3 Protect Your Investment
In the commercial world, vehicles and equipment are the major assets and investments. An excavator can cost as much as an HGTV-quality home. Yes, you can’t live in your excavator, but try building that home without an excavator for hire! AMSOIL products deliver proven wear protection in the most demanding equipment. AMSOIL products guard against wear and deposits, protecting equipment power and efficiency, which helps you get more work done and maximize engine and component life.
#4 Extensive Product Offering
AMSOIL offers everything from advanced synthetic drivetrain lubricants to premium fuel additives. We even have gun cleaner, leather boot lube, metal protector and several other products for just about anything in your garage. The complete AMSOIL product line ensures all your vehicles and equipment are protected. Not sure which lubricants your rig takes? Use the AMSOIL Lookup Guide.
#5 Personalized, Face-to-Face Service
Each commercial account is serviced by an independent AMSOIL Dealer. Dealers are available to help map out a program designed to maximize vehicle performance while saving you money. AMSOIL INC. corporate personnel are also available to offer technical and administrative support. Qualified accounts may also apply for credit with AMSOIL, simplifying the payment process.
#6 Free Maintenance-Tracking Program
MyAMSOILGarage™ is a free, easy-to-use online vehicle maintenance program. This free fleet-management tool allows you to organize your maintenance and service records. You can also schedule email reminders for future services and track any services that are performed. Visit MyAMSOILGarage to establish a free account.
#7 Signing up as a Commercial Account is FREE!
I have always liked saving the best for last. Establishing an AMSOIL Commercial Account is free and simple. AMSOIL is all about saving you time and money as a business owner. Why spend extra time or money repairing equipment when it could be avoided by using AMSOIL products.
Can I use the same motor oil in my motorcycle, dirt bike and ATV/UTV?
Sure, you can use a single oil formulation for all your toys (assuming you use the correct viscosity in each). But you shouldn’t. Kind of like you can dump Filippo Berio Extra Virgin Olive Oil into your machines, but you shouldn’t.
Why? Because each application presents unique challenges to motor oil that one formulation can’t meet. We’ll break them all down to see why.
But first, let’s look at what the motor oil must do regardless of the application.
Whether in a Harley-Davidson, Kawasaki sport bike, UTV or dirt bike, the oil has to protect against wear and fight the damaging effects of extreme heat. These include deposit formation, which robs the engine of efficiency and power. It also includes “oxidation,” which is a ten-cent word that means chemical break down. The sooner the oil breaks down, the sooner it fails to guard against wear and deposits as well as it should. And the sooner it requires changing, wasting time and money.
That’s simple enough. And years ago it was possible to make one motor oil to protect all those applications. But today’s engines aren’t so simple.
Take your classic air-cooled V-twin, like the engine found in most Harley-Davidson motorcycles. These engines get hot. How hot? In our 2012 Harley-Davidson Street Bob we tested in our mechanical lab, we saw cylinder temperatures reach 383ºF (195ºC). In contrast, our liquid-cooled 2017 Indian Scout running the same test demonstrated cylinder temps on average of 200ºF (93ºC).
Heat that intense can wreak havoc on the motor oil. The oil can lose viscosity and thin out, effectively turning your 20W-50 into a 10W-40, or worse. A lighter viscosity than what the engine is designed to use can fail to protect parts against wear. Extreme heat also hastens chemical break down.
In fact, the rate of oxidation doubles for every 18ºF (10ºC) increase in oil temperature. That means for every 18ºF increase in temperature, oil life is cut in half.
It’s vital that the oil meant for your air-cooled V-twin is formulated to withstand such intense heat. To accomplish that, we formulate AMSOIL Synthetic V-Twin Motorcycle Oil with added resistance to extreme heat. Its naturally heat-resistant synthetic base oils maintain viscosity despite extreme heat and the shearing force of transmission gears “cutting” the oil’s molecular structure. That translates into reliable protection in the toughest riding conditions.
What about a metric sport bike? Can’t be much different than a V-twin, can it?
In this case, foam is one of our biggest enemies. A metric bike can easily surpass 10,000 rpm. The mechanical action of the crankshaft spinning that fast can whip air into the oil, causing foam.
If the oil isn’t formulated with fast air-release properties, foam bubbles will travel throughout the engine. When they collapse between meshing gears or bearing surfaces, nothing is left behind to provide protection except air.
We all need air, but it’s worthless at protecting high-performance engines against wear.
That’s why we formulate AMSOIL Synthetic Metric Motorcycle Oil specifically to resist foam. Its anti-foam additives weaken the surface tension of air bubbles, helping eliminate foam. This results in excellent wear protection no matter how heavy you lay into the throttle.
Your ATV/UTV is a whole different animal. Here, oil film strength takes on additional importance. That’s because these units are frequently used to perform heavy work at slow speeds.
You might think, “Sure, but my Harley runs hard, too.” True, but motorcycles are typically ridden recreationally, meaning they undergo increased stress when accelerating, but level out so to speak once you reach cruising speed. Riding at a consistent speed under light load creates less stress than, for example, pulling a stump out of the ground with your UTV or pulling a loaded trailer uphill through the mud with your ATV.
Finally, we have dirt bikes. Surprisingly, dirt bike operating conditions are similar to those of an ATV or UTV. True, you don’t plow snow with your Honda CRF450. But the bike similarly undergoes low-speed stress punctuated with periods of high revving.
In a race, you’re heavy on the throttle out of the gate. Then you back off into the first corner. You’re on the throttle through the whoops, causing the rear tire to spin freely when it’s in the air, but create a heavy load on the engine when it contacts the ground.
Where dirt bikes differ, however, is in engine design.
Dirt bike engines are typically lightweight designs meant for performance. Any time you remove mass, yet increase power, you increase engine stress. The combination of high rpm and lighter materials creates the perfect scenario for engine failure should the motor oil fail to do its job. Plus, dirt bike pistons tend to have shorter piston skirts to reduce friction. That may help your lap time, but it doesn’t help engine longevity. The shorter piston wants to rock inside the cylinder, which concentrates tremendous force on the tiny area where the piston skirt and cylinder wall contact. Only a microscopic oil film provides protection in this area, meaning the oil had better offer the film strength needed to help the engine survive.
Making matters worse, dirt bikes barely hold any oil. Roughly one quart is common. Think about everything that single quart of oil must do:
That’s why most riders change motor oil frequently. Rebuilding the top-end every 15 hours or so isn’t uncommon, either.
But just because dirt bike oil is changed frequently, don’t think you can use a cheap oil. It’s far less expensive and less hassle to pay a little more up front for a good oil than it is to rebuild your top-end.
The moral of the story is this: the days of using one motor oil for all your toys is over. Each application creates unique challenges that are best suited for a tailor-made motor oil formulation.